Not far from the complex of Sant'Anselmo, high on the Aventine Hill, via di Santa Sabina opens onto the quiet Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta. Bordered by a high wall, decorated with neoclassical obelisks and military trophies, it leads to a famous and fascinating broad wooden door.
Known affectionately by Romans as the "hole of Rome" its abiding attraction draws queues of visitors to this peaceable "out of the way" spot. No key is required: it is sufficient to put an open eye to the keyhole, and focus. With kaleidoscope charm, a vision of St Peter's dome (affectionately known to Romans as the "Cuppolone") perfectly in perspective, framed by the tops of trees in the foreground, opens up. Often wrapped in a thin mysterious mist, seems to stand at the end of the garden path, just beyond the door.
Taverna Trilussa Trastevere, a truffled heaven.
Via del Politeama 23/25. ROMA Tel. 06-5818918
Trattoria Da Enzo, Via dei vascellari, 29
Find yourself in this tiny, crowded restaurant, with sketches of cats framed along the blinding yellow walls, and you'll wonder why, beyond the delish pasta dishes and fantastic wine list, why you worship this local favorite. Recommended to us by a cab driver, we were forever grateful.
If cooking is your passion, visit the local cheese shops in Trastevere or the outdoor markets of Campo di Fiori.
Along the river, this quote sums up exactly how I feel about this city.
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