Last 24 hours in Rome

The final day is here and I already miss this perfect city. Started the day with my morning ritual of visiting the local coffee shop for a cappucino. Next, I visited the Campo di Fiori market for a few items to bring back to the states. Decided on white truffle oil, olive oil and truffled honey.

Christmas decorations twinkle from the corners of each cobbled street. The store windows are at their best, horse drawn carriages and the smell of toasted acorns warm the atmosphere.

Behind the Spanish Steps, Villa Borghese and the immense park provide the ideal day. I walked along the quiet paths, the ground covered in a pale yellow and green glow of the fallen dried leaves.

The area started as a vineyard in the 16th century. In 1605 cardinal Scipione Borghese, a nephew of pope Paul V, turned the vineyard into a park. In 1903 the city of Rome obtained the Villa Borghese from the Borghese family and the park was opened to the public. 

The Villa Borghese park is also home to several museums, including the Museo e Galleria Borghese, which has a collection of sculptures with some important works by Canova, Bernini, Titian, Rubens and Raphael. The park also contains an amphitheater (the Piazza di Siena), an 18th century arch (the arco di Settimio Severo) and a botanical garden.

The day turned to night and I made it back to the steps. Such a gorgeous view of everyone bustling about as they shop and find a nearby restaurant for apperativo.

Roscioli, my happy place...

If perfection was ever acheived, it happened here. Walk in and you're enveloped by fine wines, salumi, braesola and proscutto, walls of truffle spreads and jars of honey.

Sit at the bar or at one of the small wooden tables with elegant wine glasses and a menu listing cheese plate options from around Europe. With the help of the curtious waiters, I opted for a plate of soft cheeses from Langhe/Piedmont, including an incredible Pave goat cheese, paired with a glass of Verdicchio dei castelli di jesi "vigna di gino" wine from Fattoria San Lorenzo, Marche.

Roscioli: Via dei Giubbonari, 21-22
http://www.salumeriaroscioli.com/

Soccer & Scooters

When I think of the quintessential italian evening, it would be our encounters last night. We were picked up by our italian friends on silver and black scooters. After donning the shiny helmuts and jumping on the back of our bikes, we rode off to the soccer game. Singing the Roma anthem and jumping up and down to the energy of the immense stadium, we drank beers and cheered on. After the game and a lot of men yelling "vaffanculo" at various players, we hopped back on our bikes in the rain. Skidding across the glistening streets, we found our restaurant, dined on the usual pizza and pasta dishes, drank red wine and said good night to our friends before heading out for the rest of our evening's adventures at our favorite spot, bar della pace.

Viva Roma!

This is where our adventures come together and really begin. Where our vision of a short visit to relax, becomes a wish to stay on forever. The warmth of the people, the relaxed attitude and beautiful culture, art and architecture makes every day perfect. Start with a long coffee at Bar Calisto in Trastevere, walk the piazzas and take a siesta before enjoying a heavy pasta lunch with massive amounts of vino. Nap again only to wake and enjoy apperativo, a cocktail and start your night from there. Dinner with friends and an evening of dancing at JetSet and La Maison or a passionate soccer game at the fan-filled stadium.

Not far from the complex of Sant'Anselmo, high on the Aventine Hill, via di Santa Sabina opens onto the quiet Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta. Bordered by a high wall, decorated with neoclassical obelisks and military trophies, it leads to a famous and fascinating broad wooden door.
Known affectionately by Romans as the "hole of Rome" its abiding attraction draws queues of visitors to this peaceable "out of the way" spot. No key is required: it is sufficient to put an open eye to the keyhole, and focus. With kaleidoscope charm, a vision of St Peter's dome (affectionately known to Romans as the "Cuppolone") perfectly in perspective, framed by the tops of trees in the foreground, opens up. Often wrapped in a thin mysterious mist, seems to stand at the end of the garden path, just beyond the door.

Taverna Trilussa Trastevere, a truffled heaven.
Via del Politeama 23/25. ROMA Tel. 06-5818918

Trattoria Da Enzo, Via dei vascellari, 29
Find yourself in this tiny, crowded restaurant, with sketches of cats framed along the blinding yellow walls, and you'll wonder why, beyond the delish pasta dishes and fantastic wine list, why you worship this local favorite. Recommended to us by a cab driver, we were forever grateful.

If cooking is your passion, visit the local cheese shops in Trastevere or the outdoor markets of Campo di Fiori.

Along the river, this quote sums up exactly how I feel about this city.